I am addicted to the nam jim dressing recipe here. It encapsulates all that I love about Thai cuisine, in it’s funky, spicy sour umami glory and makes the perfect liquor to douse the charred shellfish in hot off the grill. The seafood here is merely a suggestion, most will work well, though avoid white fish on the barbeque unless you fancy scrubbing charred bits off the grill for weeks to come.