Mussels have always been eaten in Ireland, usually by coastal dwellers, but they were also hawked around the streets of Drogheda and of course Dublin, as evidenced in the old song about Molly Malone who ‘wheeled her wheelbarrow through streets broad and narrow’. Today the mussels of Wexford are particularly large and succulent, a commercial mussel farm having been established there, but there are also many fine mussels in other parts of Ireland. This is a modern recipe given to me by the Irish aquaculture association. Recipe from The Pleasures of the Table: Rediscovering Theodora Fitzgibbon.